What to expect
In Spain it is not Father Christmas but the Three Kings who bring the presents, on the night before 6 January. The entrance of Melchor, Gaspar and Baltasar in Palma is suitably grand: in the late afternoon of 5 January they arrive by boat at the Moll Vell in the old harbour, usually around 4.30 to 5 pm. Thousands of families are already waiting there when the kings and their entourage come ashore and are officially welcomed.
Then the Cabalgata begins, the great parade through the city centre. On decorated floats the kings move through the streets with music groups, dancers and helpers, typically along the Avenida d'Antoni Maura and on towards the centre. Sweets rain down from the floats, which is why you see many children with upturned umbrellas at the roadside. The parade lasts about two hours.
On the morning of 6 January comes the quieter, ceremonial part: the Adoració dels Reis at Ses Voltes below the cathedral, a traditional nativity play in which the kings pay homage to the infant Jesus. Afterwards all of Palma sits down to a family meal, traditionally with the Roscón de Reyes, the ring-shaped cake with a hidden figure inside.
Practical tips
- Getting there: On foot or by bus into the city centre. Streets around the harbour and the parade route are closed from the afternoon.
- Crowds: The Moll Vell and the Passeig are packed from 4 pm. If you want a good spot with children, arrive an hour before the boat lands.
- Costs: The arrival, the parade and the Adoració are free. A Roscón costs from around 10 to 20 EUR at the bakery.
- With children: A bag or an upturned umbrella for the sweets is practically part of the kit. Do not forget a warm jacket, there is a chilly breeze at the harbour in January.